NEED FOR SPEED PROSTREET Contents: -Author's Words -Author's creditting people (thanks) -Extra info about this walkthrough -Understanding of this walkthrough -Grip Car Blueprints -Grip Car advise -Drag Car Blueprints -Drag car advise -Drift Car Blueprints -Drift Car advise -Speed Car Blueprints -Speed Car advise -Final Words --------------------------------- Author's Words --------------------------------- I am fully aware that in regards to the drag blueprints not all of it is my own work. It is indeed the work of other people and having discussions in the forums Supercheats. You can see these "original blueprints" if you like, in the Need For Speed Prostreet forums. I am only merely putting the blueprints in because I know some people may not normally use the forums here or on other websites and also I've made slight adjustments myself. I am only informing you - the reader - of this just in case you may be one of the people that made the "original blueprints" and think I've plageriarised your work. I'm just publishing this for the benefit of those who are not aware of the set ups. In addition, I have put set-ups in the NFS Prostreet forums, but viewers may find large differences. Don't be alarmed and I assure you this is a genuine change and so follow this walkthrough's advice. --------------------------------- Author's Thanks --------------------------------- And so I would like to thank those people for actually spending the time to fine tune the set-ups on these cars and then spreading the word in which I must also thank the members of Supercheats who regularly went to the Need For Speed Prostreet forums who searched around for these set ups from the original creators of them. The likes include : -fish man -PS2 Man -Superbeast -Murcielago fish man mostly cause he got the set ups for the Camaro SS and Supra and so my set ups I am giving for those cars are heavily based on what he gave. The Ford Mustang and Dodge Charger R/T tuning guides also have origins from the Supra set up. As for the other 3, they gave some good conversations and discussions about set ups and which cars to use so that sped up progress with set ups along the way. --------------------------------- Extra info about this walkthrough --------------------------------- Now finally in regards to the walthrough as a whole or in general, as well as giving my blueprints to the cars that I have done myself (namely the Grip, some of the Drag, Drift and Speed cars) I will also advise how best to use the cars where necessary in a race and also when you would use one over the other. --------------------------------- Understanding of this walkthrough: --------------------------------- In the tuning part for each car, when I say +5 for example. I mean move the cursor 5 places to the right of the default set up. Similarly if I were to say -5 that means 5 places to the left. 0 means leave it at default. --------------------------------- --------------------------------- GRIP CAR BLUEPRINTS --------------------------------- Grip Cars: -Nissan 240SX -Porsche 911 Turbo -Subaru WRX STI -Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution X -Pagani Zonda F Note that these are probably only a few of the cars that could be used for Grip so this is only a guide for the cars that I have bought, tuned up and used. In addition all of these cars were tuned fully to Stage 4. --------------------------------- Nissan 240SX --------------------------------- BODY: Front Wheels: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 80% Zone 4: 100% Rear Wheels: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 100% Zone 4: 100% Bodykit: Widebody: 100% Hood: Stock Spoler Style 305: Zone 1: 35% Zone 2: 50% Zone 3: 100% Zone 4: 40% Zone 5: 100% Roll Cage: recommended TUNING: Suspension: Front Shock Compression: +5 Rear Shock Compression: 0 Front Shock Rebound: 0 Rear Shock Rebound: -10 Front Spring: +5 Rear Spring: 0 Ride Height: -8 Front Roll Bar Stiffness: +10 Rear Roll Bar Stiffness: +5 Front Tire Pressure: -10 Rear Tire Pressure: -10 Toe: 0 Camber: +4 Caster: 0 Steering Response Ratio: 0 Engine: CAM Timing: -10 Start Boost: +10 End Boost: +10 Nitrous Pressure: 0 Nitrous Jetting Flow Rate: 0 Drivetrain/Gear ratios: 1) 0 2) +4 3) +2 4) +1 5) 0 6) 0 Final Drive ratio: +1 Brakes: Bias: -3 Brake Pressure: +10 Handbrake Pressure: 0 Recommended driving style: Generally this car copes quite well with the slow to medium corners. Though fast ones are a bit of a handful with it, but despite that overall this car is quite good as you can drive pretty aggressively with it, albeit slow corners do require some finesse. Probably the ultimate underdog grip car in the game as you can still beat the likes of Gavin May, Henrik Dein, Paul Trask and Ivan Travosky pretty comfortably. --------------------------------- Porsche 911 Turbo --------------------------------- BODY: Wheels: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 100% Zone 4: 100% Bodykit: Widebody: 100% Hood: Stock Spoler Style 305: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 50% Zone 3: 100% Zone 4: 30% Zone 5: 100% Roll Cage: recommended TUNING: Suspension: Front Shock Compression: +7 Rear Shock Compression: 0 Front Shock Rebound: +10 Rear Shock Rebound: -7 Front Spring: +7 Rear Spring: 0 Ride Height: -10 Front Roll Bar Stiffness: +10 Rear Roll Bar Stiffness: -10 Front Tire Pressure: -10 Rear Tire Pressure: -10 Toe: 0 Camber: +10 Caster: +10 Steering Response Ratio: -10 Engine: CAM Timing: -10 Start Boost: +10 End Boost: +10 Nitrous Pressure: +5 Nitrous Jetting Flow Rate: +5 Drivetrain/Gear ratios: 1) 0 2) 0 3) -4 4) -4 5) -2 6) -2 Final Drive ratio: +3 Brakes: Bias: -3 Brake Pressure: +10 Handbrake Pressure: 0 Recommended driving style: Generally you can be very aggressive with this car on the circuit and go faster than "recommended" in corners and you'll manage just fine. The only time you might have to be alert is when there are slow corners that link together right after each other and the rear just tends to step out on you a bit. --------------------------------- Subaru WRX STI --------------------------------- BODY: Both Wheels: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 100% Zone 4: 100% Bodykit: Widebody: 100% Hood: Stock (CF) Spoler Style 305: Zone 1: 15% Zone 2: 35% Zone 3: 100% Zone 4: 30% Zone 5: 100% Roll Cage: recommended TUNING: Suspension: Front Shock Compression: +5 Rear Shock Compression: -10 Front Shock Rebound: +10 Rear Shock Rebound: -10 Front Spring: +5 Rear Spring: -10 Ride Height: -5 Front Roll Bar Stiffness: +10 Rear Roll Bar Stiffness: +10 Front Tire Pressure: -9 Rear Tire Pressure: -10 Toe: +3 Camber: +10 Caster: +10 Steering Response Ratio: -5 Engine: CAM Timing: -10 Start Boost: +10 End Boost: +10 Nitrous Pressure: 0 Nitrous Jetting Flow Rate: 0 Drivetrain/Gear ratios: 1) +10 2) +10 3) +10 4) +10 5) -4 6) -5 Final Drive ratio: +10 Brakes: Bias: -2 Brake Pressure: +10 Handbrake Pressure: 0 Recommended driving style: Like the 911 Turbo, you can be quite aggressive with this car as well. Although for slow corners you might want to have a bit of finesse as this car does tend to slide a bit from all its power and torque. If you do end up in a slide, try not to counter-steer it too soon as the front will grip and throw you off. --------------------------------- Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution X --------------------------------- BODY: Front Wheels: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 0% Zone 4: 100% Rear Wheels: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 100% Zone 4: 100% Bodykit: Widebody: 0% Hood: Stock Spoler Style 204: Zone 1: 10% Zone 2: 50% Zone 3: 100% Zone 4: 35% Roll Cage: not recommended TUNING: Suspension: Front Shock Compression: +5 Rear Shock Compression: 0 Front Shock Rebound: +7 Rear Shock Rebound: -10 Front Spring: +5 Rear Spring: 0 Ride Height: -1 Front Roll Bar Stiffness: -10 Rear Roll Bar Stiffness: -10 Front Tire Pressure: -5 Rear Tire Pressure: -10 Toe: +10 Camber: +10 Caster: +10 Steering Response Ratio: -10 Engine: CAM Timing: +10 Start Boost: +10 End Boost: +10 Nitrous Pressure: 0 Nitrous Jetting Flow Rate: 0 Drivetrain/Gear ratios: 1) +10 2) +6 3) +7 4) +5 5) +5 6) +5 Final Drive ratio: +3 Brakes: Bias: -3 Brake Pressure: +10 Handbrake Pressure: 0 Recommended driving style: This car differs a bit more to the 911 than the Subaru. Quite a demanding car in terms of you need a fair amount of smooth driving in all aspects. Though that doesn't mean all corners require this. Again this car does allow for an aggressive style, but only on some corners in particular the high-speed ones, but I have to warn you of the bottoming out. Again if you find yourself sliding try not to counter steer too soon or you'll be thrown off. --------------------------------- Pagani Zonda F --------------------------------- BODY: Front Wheels: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 60% Zone 4: 100% Rear Wheels: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 100% Zone 4: 100% Bodykit: Widebody: 100% Hood: Stock Spoler Style 206: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 40% Zone 3: 100% Zone 4: 30% Roll Cage: recommended TUNING: Suspension: Front Shock Compression: +5 Rear Shock Compression: 0 Front Shock Rebound: +3 Rear Shock Rebound: -10 Front Spring: +5 Rear Spring: 0 Ride Height: 0 Front Roll Bar Stiffness: +10 Rear Roll Bar Stiffness: -10 Front Tire Pressure: -9 Rear Tire Pressure: -10 Toe: 0 Camber: +10 Caster: +10 Steering Response Ratio: -10 Engine: CAM Timing: -10 Start Boost: +10 End Boost: +10 Nitrous Pressure: 0 Nitrous Jetting Flow Rate: 0 Drivetrain/Gear ratios: 1) +3 2) -3 3) -2 4) -2 5) -2 6) -2 Final Drive ratio: +1 Brakes: Bias: -4 Brake Pressure: +10 Handbrake Pressure: 0 Recommended driving style: This car is insanely fast! And I know you're going to be wondering why I bothered with this car...Well I like it :) But cutting the chase here with how to drive this beast. You can be very aggressive with your driving of this car just like the Porsche 911 Turbo except for at even higher cornering speed. However, on the starts and certain slow corners you need to just hold off the throttle just a little bit so you don't get a bit of a tank slapper. --------------------------------- GRIP CAR ADVISE --------------------------------- Obviously all of these cars have their strengths and weaknesses which will affect why you will or may choose them to take with you to a race day and possibly when you are up against the Kings. Obviously when you start out you'll have the Nissan 240SX so you're going to have to start with that one and build up a lot of money to get it all to Stage 3 first and then you can either use the UNLOCKALLTHINGS cheat code to get Stage 4 or do it the long way and unlock them as you go along. Most of the time I would suggest using the Porsche 911 Turbo as it is very driveable and it won't exactly try to kill you if you make a mistake. On the other hand, the Pagani Zonda F is VERY fast indeed and the braking stability is incredible. The Subaru is actually very good indeed as well and it wouldn't be a bad idea to choose it in most race days and likewise with the Mitsubishi, but the Subaru is just a bit more stable when accelerating out of the slow corners which is the weak point of both these cars. Braking for the slow corners is fine, but you get a bit of "off-throttle" oversteer which is quite annoying at times. The Mitsubishi does have a bad case of bottoming out occasionally especially at the Autobahnring and on the Oval circuit at Texas Speedway. However, when it comes to high-speed corners the Mitsubishi is very good, but the Subaru understeers a bit, hence why the front tyres had to be at its widest just like the rear tyres. In conclusion then, obviously you're starting with the Nissan 240SX so you're stuck with that one for a while. When you do unlock the Mitsubishi and Subaru, it's your choice as both of these cars' acceleration will make mince meat of the CPU, but the Subaru is just that little bit more stable when accelerating out of slow corners. However, the problem with these cars is that depending on the circuit they are prone to a bit of bouncing from the bumps. These circuits include the likes of Tokyo Dockyard, Ebisu, Nevada Highway and some of the ones at the Autobahnring. This is where the 911 Turbo and Zonda come in. They are very stable and settled over bumps, but they are obviously still different. If you want to have really high scores to either absolutely dominate and smash records, go for the 911 Turbo, but if you're not bothered by scores and more concerned by all out raw pace, go for the Zonda. Of course once you've finished the game, go for either the Subaru or Mitsubishi just for fun. --------------------------------- DRAG CAR BLUEPRINTS --------------------------------- Drag Cars: -Toyota Supra -Ford Mustang GT '06 -Pagani Zonda F -Chevrolet Camaro SS -Dodge Charger R/T Again like with the Grip cars these are only a few that could probably be used, but it can atleast give you some guideline for your own other cars. In addition, none of the drag cars in this walkthrough require a roll cage. Each drag car has 2 blueprints as one set up for it will be for pure drag and the other will be for in a wheelie situation. --------------------------------- Toyota Supra (Pure Drag) --------------------------------- Engine - Stage 4 Drivetrain - Stage 4 Forced Induction - Stage 4 Suspension - Stage 4, then once you have tuned it, downgrade it to Stage 1 Brakes - Stage 3 (only because it only goes to stage 3) then after tuning stock it Tyres - Stage 4 Nitrous Oxide - Stage 4 BODY: Front Wheels: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 0% Zone 4: 100% Rear Wheels: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 100% Zone 4: 100% Bodykit: Stock Hood: Stock (cf) Spoiler: Style 403: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 0% TUNING: Suspension: Front Shock Compression: -10 Rear Shock Compression: +10 Front Shock Rebound: -10 Rear Shock Rebound: +10 Front Spring: -10 Rear Spring: +10 Ride Height: +10 Front Roll Bar Stiffness: -10 Rear Roll Bar Stiffness: +10 Front Tire Pressure: +10 Rear Tire Pressure: -10 Toe: 0 Camber: 0 Caster: 0 Steering Response Ratio: 0 Engine: CAM Timing: -10 Start Boost: +10 End Boost: +10 Nitrous Pressure: +10 Nitrous Jetting Flow Rate: +10 Drivetrain/Gear ratios: 1) Not required! 2) 0 3) +3 4) +7 5) +10 6) Not required! Final Drive ratio: +10 Brakes: Bias: +6 Brake Pressure: +6 Handbrake Pressure: +7 Recommnded Method: WHen you are waiting for the lights to go green, put your car into second gear. Now you can either wait for 4 "light ups" from the words "Ready". When I mean a "light up" I mean basically that the text goes a lighter yellow colour than normal. On the 4th light up you start accelerating and then when it says "Go", then you use your nitrous oxide. Or you can time it normally from the lights. Usually for the Supra it's best to wait until the orange light has died down from its flash then start accelerating and again when the text changes to "Go" or the light goes green, then use your nitrous oxide. Perfect shift into gear 5 and you'll hit the top speed of 250mph. My personal best time with the Supra on a Quarter Mile so far is a 5.76 and a Half Mile is 9.31 --------------------------------- Toyota Supra (Wheelie) --------------------------------- Engine - Stage 4 Drivetrain - Stage 4 Forced Induction - Stage 4 Suspension - Stage 4 Brakes - Stage 3 Tyres - Stage 4 Nitrous Oxide - Stage 4 BODY: Front Wheels: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 0% Zone 4: 100% Rear Wheels: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 100% Zone 4: 100% Bodykit: Widebody: 100% Hood: Stock Spoiler: Stock TUNING: Suspension: Front Shock Compression: 0 Rear Shock Compression: -10 Front Shock Rebound: 0 Rear Shock Rebound: -10 Front Spring: 0 Rear Spring: -10 Ride Height: -1 Front Roll Bar Stiffness: 0 Rear Roll Bar Stiffness: 0 Front Tire Pressure: +10 Rear Tire Pressure: -10 Toe: 0 Camber: 0 Caster: 0 Steering Response Ratio: 0 Engine: CAM Timing: -10 Start Boost: +10 End Boost: +10 Nitrous Pressure: 0 Nitrous Jetting Flow Rate: 0 Drivetrain/Gear ratios: 1) 0 2) 0 3) 0 4) 0 5) 0 6) 0 Final Drive ratio: 0 Brakes: Bias: 0 Brake Pressure: 0 Handbrake Pressure: 0 Recommnded Method: When you're waiting to go, keep revving the engine to (ironically) stop you from false starting. Then when you can go, reverse on the strip as far as you can. Then just go through the gears perfect shifting, BUT as soon as you have shifted into gear 4, slam in the nitrous oxide. My personal best Wheelie with the Supra is 1668feet. --------------------------------- Ford Mustang GT '06 (Pure Drag) --------------------------------- Engine - Stage 4 Drivetrain - Stage 4 Forced Induction - Stage 4 Suspension - Stage 4, then once you have tuned it, downgrade it to Stage 1 Brakes - Stock Tyres - Stage 4 Nitrous Oxide - Stage 4 BODY: Front Wheels: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 0% Zone 4: 100% Rear Wheels: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 100% Zone 4: 100% Bodykit: Formula 5: All 0% Hood: Stock (cf) Spoiler: Style 403: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 100% TUNING: Suspension: Front Shock Compression: -10 Rear Shock Compression: +10 Front Shock Rebound: -10 Rear Shock Rebound: +10 Front Spring: -10 Rear Spring: +10 Ride Height: +10 Front Roll Bar Stiffness: -10 Rear Roll Bar Stiffness: +10 Front Tire Pressure: +10 Rear Tire Pressure: -10 Toe: 0 Camber: 0 Caster: 0 Steering Response Ratio: 0 Engine: CAM Timing: -10 Start Boost: +10 End Boost: +10 Nitrous Pressure: 0 Nitrous Jetting Flow Rate: 0 Drivetrain/Gear ratios: 1) Not required! 2) 0 3) 0 4) +3 5) 0 6) 0 Final Drive ratio: 8 Brakes: Stocked already so not necessary Recommnded Method: Exactly the same as the Supra above for pure drag for the start, but you will need all 6 gears. The only issue probably is that the Mustang is significantly slower, but it does have a LOT less power. In addition, the gear shifts are a little bit dodgy. My personal best time with the Mustang on a Quarter Mile is 6.8 4 and on a Half Mile is 10.49 --------------------------------- Ford Mustang GT '06 (Wheelie) --------------------------------- Engine - Stage 4 Drivetrain - Stage 4 Forced Induction - Stage 4 Suspension - Stage 4 Brakes - Stage 3 Tyres - Stage 4 Nitrous Oxide - Stage 4 BODY: Front Wheels: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 0% Zone 4: 100% Rear Wheels: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 100% Zone 4: 100% Bodykit: Formula 5: All 0% Hood: Stock (cf) Spoiler: Style 403: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 100% TUNING: Suspension: Front Shock Compression: 0 Rear Shock Compression: -10 Front Shock Rebound: 0 Rear Shock Rebound: -10 Front Spring: 0 Rear Spring: -10 Ride Height: -10 Front Roll Bar Stiffness: 0 Rear Roll Bar Stiffness: -10 Front Tire Pressure: +10 Rear Tire Pressure: -10 Toe: 0 Camber: 0 Caster: 0 Steering Response Ratio: 0 Engine: CAM Timing: -10 Start Boost: +10 End Boost: +10 Nitrous Pressure: +10 Nitrous Jetting Flow Rate: +10 Drivetrain/Gear ratios: 1) Not required! 2) 0 3) 0 4) 0 5) 0 6) 0 Final Drive ratio: 0 Brakes: Bias: 0 Brake Pressure : 0 Handbrake Pressure: 0 Recommnded Method: Wait till you get the "Go" or green light, then reverse as far back as you can on the strip. When you're about to shift into gear 1, shift into it in the REDLINE range. Just trust me on this and you'll see what happens if you try and shift into gear 1 in the perfect shift range. Again once you've perfect shifted into gear 4, slam the nitrous and continue on. My personal best wheelie with the Mustang is 1494ft --------------------------------- Pagani Zonda F (Pure Drag) --------------------------------- Engine - Stage 4 Drivetrain - Stage 4 Forced Induction - Stage 4 Suspension - Stage 4, then once you have tuned it, downgrade it back to stock Brakes - Stage 3 Tyres - Stage 4 Nitrous Oxide - Stage 4 BODY: Front Wheels: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 0% Zone 4: 100% Rear Wheels: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 100% Zone 4: 100% Bodykit: Stock Hood: Stock Spoiler: Stock TUNING: Suspension: Front Shock Compression: -10 Rear Shock Compression: +10 Front Shock Rebound: -10 Rear Shock Rebound: +10 Front Spring: -10 Rear Spring: +10 Ride Height: +10 Front Roll Bar Stiffness: -10 Rear Roll Bar Stiffness: +10 Front Tire Pressure: -10 Rear Tire Pressure: -10 Toe: 0 Camber: 0 Caster: 0 Steering Response Ratio: 0 Engine: CAM Timing: -10 Start Boost: +10 End Boost: +10 Nitrous Pressure: +10 Nitrous Jetting Flow Rate: +10 Drivetrain/Gear ratios: 1) +10 2) +10 3) +10 4) +10 5) Not required! 6) Not required! Final Drive ratio: +10 Brakes: Bias: 0 Brake Pressure: 0 Handbrake Pressure: 0 Recommnded Method: When waiting for the lights to go out, rev 6 times. When I mean a rev I mean rev the engine up to the red line and let it drop to about half way down in the perfect shift zone or level with the top of the nitrous oxide bar. After the 6th rev shift it into gear 1 and accelerate, but you have to keep the revs fairly high and slam the nitrous. This is actually a VERY difficult thing to master. Perfect shift through the gears until you're in gear 4 and you'll hit the game's top speed limiter of 250mph easily. My personal best time with the Zonda on a Quarter Mile is 5.44 and on a Half Mile is 8.99 --------------------------------- Pagani Zonda F (Wheelie) --------------------------------- Engine - Stage 4 Drivetrain - Stage 4 Forced Induction - Stage 4 Suspension - Stage 4 Brakes - Stage 3 Tyres - Stage 4 Nitrous Oxide - Stage 4 BODY: Front Wheels: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 0% Zone 4: 100% Rear Wheels: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 100% Zone 4: 100% Bodykit: Widebody: 0% Hood: Stock Spoiler: Style 403: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 100% TUNING: Suspension: Front Shock Compression: 0 Rear Shock Compression: -10 Front Shock Rebound: 0 Rear Shock Rebound: -10 Front Spring: 0 Rear Spring: -10 Ride Height: +10 Front Roll Bar Stiffness: 0 Rear Roll Bar Stiffness: -10 Front Tire Pressure: +10 Rear Tire Pressure: -10 Toe: 0 Camber: 0 Caster: 0 Steering Response Ratio: 0 Engine: CAM Timing: -10 Start Boost: +10 End Boost: +10 Nitrous Pressure: 0 Nitrous Jetting Flow Rate: 0 Drivetrain/Gear ratios: 1) 0 2) 0 3) 0 4) 0 5) 0 6) 0 Final Drive ratio: 0 Brakes: Bias: -10 Brake Pressure: -10 Handbrake Pressure: 0 Recommnded Method: Wait till you get the "Go" or green light turns on. Then again reverse as far back as you can on the strip and then let it rip. Accelerate whilst perfect shifting. Once you've shfited into gear 4 slam the nitrous and continue perfect shifting into gear 6. My personal best wheelie with the Zonda F is 1659ft. --------------------------------- Chevrolet Camaro SS (Pure Drag) --------------------------------- Engine - Stage 4 Drivetrain - Stage 4 Forced Induction - Stage 4 Suspension - Stage 4, then once you have tuned it, downgrade it back to stock Brakes - Stage 3, then once you have tuned it, downgrade it back to stock Tyres - Stage 4 Nitrous Oxide - Stage 4 BODY: Front Wheels: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 100% Zone 4: 100% Rear Wheels: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 100% Zone 4: 100% Bodykit: Stock Autosculpt Front Bumper: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 100% Zone 3: 0% Zone 4: 0% Zone 5: 100% Rear Bumper: All Zones 0% Side Skirts: Zone 1: 100% Zone 2: 0% Hood: Stock Spoiler: Style 403: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 0% TUNING: Suspension: Front Shock Compression: -10 Rear Shock Compression: -10 Front Shock Rebound: -10 Rear Shock Rebound: -10 Front Spring: -10 Rear Spring: -10 Ride Height: -10 Front Roll Bar Stiffness: -10 Rear Roll Bar Stiffness: -10 Front Tire Pressure: -10 Rear Tire Pressure: -10 Toe: 0 Camber: 0 Caster: 0 Steering Response Ratio: 0 Engine: CAM Timing: -10 Start Boost: +10 End Boost: +10 Nitrous Pressure: +10 Nitrous Jetting Flow Rate: +10 Drivetrain/Gear ratios: 1) Not required! 2) Not required! 3) Not required! 4) Not required! 5) -2 6) -2 Final Drive ratio: -2 Brakes: Bias: 0 Brake Pressure: +10 Handbrake Pressure: 0 Recommnded Method: When waiting to go, put your car into gear 5 and wait for 3 "Ready" flashes. On the 3rd one start accelerating and when the text changes to "Go" slam the nitrous. Alternatively you can do this with the lights where you wait till the orange light has almost turned off completely (it's quite hard to tell when, but it takes a LOT of practie) and then slamming the nitrous when the light goes green. Then to get the best shift into gear 6, wait until the revs are in line with the top of the nitrous bar. My personal best time on a Quarter Mile is 5.43 and on a Half Mile is 9.04 --------------------------------- Chevrolet Camaro SS (Wheelie) --------------------------------- Engine - Stage 4 Drivetrain - Stage 4 Forced Induction - Stage 4 Suspension - Stage 4 Brakes - Stage 3 Tyres - Stage 4 Nitrous Oxide - Stage 4 BODY: Front Wheels: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 100% Zone 4: 100% Rear Wheels: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 100% Zone 4: 100% Bodykit: Stock Autosculpt: All 0% Hood: Stock (Cf) Spoiler: Style 403: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 0% TUNING: Suspension: Front Shock Compression: 0 Rear Shock Compression: -10 Front Shock Rebound: 0 Rear Shock Rebound: -10 Front Spring: 0 Rear Spring: -10 Ride Height: +10 Front Roll Bar Stiffness: 0 Rear Roll Bar Stiffness: -10 Front Tire Pressure: +10 Rear Tire Pressure: -10 Toe: 0 Camber: 0 Caster: 0 Steering Response Ratio: 0 Engine: CAM Timing: -10 Start Boost: +10 End Boost: +10 Nitrous Pressure: 0 Nitrous Jetting Flow Rate: 0 Drivetrain/Gear ratios: 1) 0 2) 0 3) 0 4) 0 5) 0 6) 0 Final Drive ratio: 0 Brakes: Bias: 0 Brake Pressure: +10 Handbrake Pressure: 0 Recommnded Method: As usual reverse as far back as you can on the strip. The Camaro SS is probably the easiest to use on wheelies, mostly because you just perfect shift through the gears and you don't have to use the nitrous until you're in gear 5. My personal best, however, doesn't quite reflect that with 1654ft. 14ft shy of my Supra's personal best, but this is probably partially to do with the difference in wheelbase lengths. --------------------------------- Dodge Charger R/T (Pure Drag) --------------------------------- Engine - Stage 4 Drivetrain - Stage 4 Forced Induction - Stage 4 Suspension - Stage 4, then after tuning downgrade it to Stage 2 Brakes - Stock Tyres - Stage 4 Nitrous Oxide - Stage 4 BODY: Front Wheels: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 100% Zone 4: 100% Rear Wheels: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 100% Zone 4: 100% Bodykit: Stock Autosculpt: All 0% Hood: Stock (Cf) Spoiler: Stock TUNING: Suspension: Front Shock Compression: -10 Rear Shock Compression: +10 Front Shock Rebound: -10 Rear Shock Rebound: +10 Front Spring: -10 Rear Spring: +10 Ride Height: +10 Front Roll Bar Stiffness: -10 Rear Roll Bar Stiffness: +10 Front Tire Pressure: -10 Rear Tire Pressure: -10 Toe: 0 Camber: 0 Caster: 0 Steering Response Ratio: 0 Engine: CAM Timing: -10 Start Boost: +10 End Boost: +10 Nitrous Pressure: +10 Nitrous Jetting Flow Rate: +10 Drivetrain/Gear ratios: 1) -10 2) 0 3) +3 4) +7 5) +10 6) 0 Final Drive ratio: +4 Brakes: Stocked already Recommnded Method: When waiting to go, rev the engine 5 times. In this case of a rev, rev the engine to the redline and let it drop to halfway in the perfect shift zone. After the 5th rev, shift into 1st and go through the gears, perfect shifting the whole way. As soon as you shift into gear 2, slam the nitrous. My personal best with the Charger R/T on a Quarter Mile is 6.19 and on a Half Mile 9.76 --------------------------------- Dodge Charger R/T (Wheelie) --------------------------------- Engine - Stage 4 Drivetrain - Stage 4 Forced Induction - Stage 4 Suspension - Stage 4 Brakes - Stage 4 Tyres - Stage 4 Nitrous Oxide - Stage 4 BODY: Front Wheels: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 100% Zone 4: 100% Rear Wheels: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 100% Zone 4: 100% Bodykit: Widebody: 0% Hood: Stock (Cf) Spoiler: Style 403: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 0% TUNING: Suspension: Front Shock Compression: 0 Rear Shock Compression: -10 Front Shock Rebound: 0 Rear Shock Rebound: -10 Front Spring: 0 Rear Spring: -10 Ride Height: +10 Front Roll Bar Stiffness: 0 Rear Roll Bar Stiffness: -10 Front Tire Pressure: +10 Rear Tire Pressure: -10 Toe: 0 Camber: 0 Caster: 0 Steering Response Ratio: 0 Engine: CAM Timing: -10 Start Boost: +10 End Boost: +10 Nitrous Pressure: 0 Nitrous Jetting Flow Rate: 0 Drivetrain/Gear ratios: 1) 0 2) 0 3) 0 4) 0 5) 0 6) 0 Final Drive ratio: 0 Brakes: Bias: 0 Brake Pressure: 0 Handbrake Pressure: 0 Recommnded Method: Once again the reverse as far as you can on the strip when the green light goes or you get the "Go". Again an easy wheelie car, but it does take longer to get up due to the longer wheelbase, but it still gets some good distances. Wait till you have shifted into gear 4, before you hit the nitrous oxide. My personal best wheelie with the Charger is 1650ft. --------------------------------- DRAG CAR ADVISE --------------------------------- I realise by this point there will be quite a lot of booha as to how on earth I got some of my personal best times/wheelies, but I shall explain now how. In regards to the times, go to Practice is the simple answer and also at Chicago Airfield. For some reason or other that airfield gives the best grip or something for your car to really take the strip. And then in regards to wheelies, it is also the best as it has the longest distance to reverse to, just be careful of the barrier as if you hit it at too high a speed, your car's front will lift and will count as a wheelie annoyingly. Now in regards to choices, well obviously for times, the Zonda F and Camaro SS are the way to go. The others are probably more for fun. However, in regards to points wise, the Camaro SS is definitely top of the list followed by the Dodge Charger R/T and then the Supra. In terms of wheelies it's probably personal preference, but I would be saying the Supra, but then again, you don't get more than 12,000 points in Wheelie Competitions, so it doesn't really matter as such considering you are guaranteed to beat the computer drivers. --------------------------------- DRIFT CAR BLUEPRINTS --------------------------------- Drift Cars: -Mazda RX-7 (attempting to make a virtual copy of Aki Kimura's) -Aki's RX-7 -BMW M3 E92 -Toyota Corolla GT5 AE86 As usual there are probably other drift cars to use, but these are the ones that I like using. Note: All Drift cars will have roll cages In addition my advice in how to drive or rather drift these cars will be in the advise section. --------------------------------- Mazda RX-7 (My Own) --------------------------------- Engine - Stage 4 Drivetrain - Stage 4 Forced Induction - Stage 4 Suspension - Stage 4 Brakes - Stage 4, then after tuning stock it Tyres - Stage 4, then after tuning stock it Nitrous Oxide - Stage 4 BODY: Both Wheels: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 70% Zone 4: 100% Bodykit: Formula 7: All Zones: 0% Hood: Stock Spoiler: Style 204: Zone 1: 65% Zone 2: 30% Zone 3: 100% Zone 4: 35% TUNING: Suspension: Front Shock Compression: 0 Rear Shock Compression: 0 Front Shock Rebound: 0 Rear Shock Rebound: 0 Front Spring: 0 Rear Spring: 0 Ride Height: -10 Front Roll Bar Stiffness: -10 Rear Roll Bar Stiffness: -10 Front Tire Pressure: -10 Rear Tire Pressure: -10 Toe: +5 Camber: +10 Caster: +10 Steering Response Ratio: -10 Engine: CAM Timing: -10 Start Boost: +10 End Boost: +10 Nitrous Pressure: 0 Nitrous Jetting Flow Rate: 0 Drivetrain/Gear ratios: 1) 0 2) 0 3) 0 4) 0 5) 0 6) 0 Final Drive ratio: -2 Brakes: Bias: +2 Brake Pressure: 0 Handbrake Pressure: +10 --------------------------------- Mazda RX-7 (Aki's) --------------------------------- Obviously when you get Aki's RX-7 all the mods are already on it that he has used and all the body parts are uneditable, but in practice you can still tune it. TUNING: Suspension: Front Shock Compression: 0 Rear Shock Compression: 0 Front Shock Rebound: 0 Rear Shock Rebound: +5 Front Spring: 0 Rear Spring: 0 Ride Height: -10 Front Roll Bar Stiffness: -10 Rear Roll Bar Stiffness: -10 Front Tire Pressure: locked off Rear Tire Pressure: locked off Toe: +10 Camber: +10 Caster: +10 Steering Response Ratio: -10 Engine: CAM Timing: -10 Start Boost: +10 End Boost: +10 Nitrous Pressure: 0 Nitrous Jetting Flow Rate: 0 Drivetrain/Gear ratios: 1) 0 2) 0 3) 0 4) 0 5) 0 6) 0 Final Drive ratio: -2 Brakes: All locked off --------------------------------- BMW M3 E92 --------------------------------- Engine - Stage 4 Drivetrain - Stage 4 Forced Induction - Stage 4 Suspension - Stage 4 Brakes - Stage 4 Tyres - Stage 4 Nitrous Oxide - Stage 4 BODY: Both Wheels: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 100% Zone 4: 100% Bodykit: Widebody: 0% Hood: Stock Spoiler: Style 204: Zone 1: 50% Zone 2: 25% Zone 3: 100% Zone 4: 30% TUNING: Suspension: Front Shock Compression: +5 Rear Shock Compression: +5 Front Shock Rebound: 0 Rear Shock Rebound: +10 Front Spring: +5 Rear Spring: +5 Ride Height: -10 Front Roll Bar Stiffness: -10 Rear Roll Bar Stiffness: -10 Front Tire Pressure: -10 Rear Tire Pressure: -10 Toe: +10 Camber: +10 Caster: +10 Steering Response Ratio: -10 Engine: CAM Timing: 0 Start Boost: +10 End Boost: +10 Nitrous Pressure: 0 Nitrous Jetting Flow Rate: 0 Drivetrain/Gear ratios: 1) 0 2) 0 3) 0 4) 0 5) 0 6) 0 Final Drive ratio: 0 Brakes: Bias: +4 Brake Pressure: 0 Handbrake Pressure: +10 --------------------------------- Toyota Corolla GT5 AE86 --------------------------------- Engine - Stage 4 Drivetrain - Stage 4 Forced Induction - Stage 4 Suspension - Stage 4 Brakes - Stage 4 Tyres - Stage 4 Nitrous Oxide - Stage 4 BODY: Both Wheels: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 50% Zone 4: 100% Bodykit: Widebody: 100% Hood: Stock Spoiler: Style 204: Zone 1: 70% Zone 2: 30% Zone 3: 100% Zone 4: 30% TUNING: Suspension: Front Shock Compression: 0 Rear Shock Compression: 0 Front Shock Rebound: -5 Rear Shock Rebound: +5 Front Spring: 0 Rear Spring: 0 Ride Height: -10 Front Roll Bar Stiffness: -10 Rear Roll Bar Stiffness: -10 Front Tire Pressure: -10 Rear Tire Pressure: -10 Toe: 0 Camber: +10 Caster: +10 Steering Response Ratio: -10 Engine: CAM Timing: -10 Start Boost: +10 End Boost: +10 Nitrous Pressure: 0 Nitrous Jetting Flow Rate: 0 Drivetrain/Gear ratios: 1) 0 2) 0 3) 0 4) 0 5) 0 6) 0 Final Drive ratio: 0 Brakes: Bias: +1 Brake Pressure: 0 Handbrake Pressure: +10 --------------------------------- DRIFT CAR ADVISE --------------------------------- The best advise really for maximum points in a drift competition on this game really is to drift for as much of the course as you can. That includes reversing on some of them. Just bear that in mind. Now in terms of choosing cars, there is no doubt that the two RX-7s are the best to go for. The BMW M3 E92 is quite fun to drift, but doesn't quite rack up the points as well and it always has a slightly slower than wanted steering input, but because of the chassis, I've had to set the Toe to maximum negative so it doesn't drift too much so it's quite a big compromise. The Corolla also doesn't quite rack up the points as well in comparison to the RX-7s, but it does handle very nicely. The power, however, is rather low and so on the high-speed tracks it will struggle to keep going a bit. So overall your best chances are with the RX-7s, but in saying that on tracks like Ebisu they can have a bit too much power and so that's where the Corolla comes in. The BMW M3 E92 is more for fun really. Finally, the best place to get your drift high scores is at Noise Bomb Autopolis and I think it's Drift Course D. --------------------------------- SPEED CAR BLUEPRINTS --------------------------------- Speed cars: -Porsche 911 Turbo -Pontiac GTO '65 (only to show you how ridiculous this car is for speed and to show you how crap the Speed King is with it) Note: Both the speed cars are fully maxed to stage 4 and do not use roll cages. --------------------------------- Porsche 911 Turbo --------------------------------- BODY: Wheels: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 100% Zone 4: 100% Bodykit: Widebody: 100% Hood: Stock (Cf) Spoler Style 305: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 20% Zone 3: 100% Zone 4: 15% Zone 5: 100% TUNING: Suspension: Front Shock Compression: +2 Rear Shock Compression: +2 Front Shock Rebound: -4 Rear Shock Rebound: -4 Front Spring: +2 Rear Spring: +2 Ride Height: +10 Front Roll Bar Stiffness: -10 Rear Roll Bar Stiffness: -10 Front Tire Pressure: -9 Rear Tire Pressure: -10 Toe: 0 Camber: +2 Caster: +10 Steering Response Ratio: +10 Engine: CAM Timing: -10 Start Boost: +10 End Boost: +10 Nitrous Pressure: 0 Nitrous Jetting Flow Rate: 0 Drivetrain/Gear ratios: 1) 0 2) 0 3) -4 4) -4 5) -2 6) -2 Final Drive ratio: +3 Brakes: Bias: +2 Brake Pressure: 0 Handbrake Pressure: 0 --------------------------------- Pontiac GTO '65 --------------------------------- BODY: Front Wheels: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 0% Zone 4: 100% Rear Wheels: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 100% Zone 4: 100% Bodykit: Stock Autosculpt: All Zones 0% Hood: Araxis Blitz (Cf): Zone 1: 100% Zone 2: 100% Zone 3: 0% Zone 4: 100% Spoler Style 403: Zone 1: 0% Zone 2: 0% Zone 3: 100% TUNING: Suspension: Front Shock Compression: -10 Rear Shock Compression: -10 Front Shock Rebound: -10 Rear Shock Rebound: +10 (to try and reduce some of the ridiculous roll) Front Spring: -10 Rear Spring: -10 Ride Height: -10 Front Roll Bar Stiffness: +10 Rear Roll Bar Stiffness: +10 Front Tire Pressure: +10 Rear Tire Pressure: -10 Toe: +10 Camber: -10 Caster: -10 Steering Response Ratio: +10 Engine: CAM Timing: -10 Start Boost: +10 End Boost: +10 Nitrous Pressure: 0 Nitrous Jetting Flow Rate: 0 Drivetrain/Gear ratios: 1) 0 2) +7 3) +10 4) +6 5) +9 6) +3 Final Drive ratio: 0 Brakes: Bias: +2 Brake Pressure: 0 Handbrake Pressure: 0 --------------------------------- SPEED CAR ADVISE --------------------------------- Personally I feel that the best speed car in the game is the Porsche 911 Turbo. It handles the bumps very well, very settled, it has good handling and the power is pretty good as well. The only problem if memory serves correct is that you may have to wait quite a long while before you get the Porsche 911 Turbo, but if you can manage to hold off Speed races till you get it you're in luck in saving lots of money on upgrading another car. If you can't do that, then you can go for the "back-ups" as I call them. You have the Mitsubishi Lancer Evo X, Subaru WRXST Impreza and Nissan Skyline R34. You should be able to use a similar set up to the Porsche 911 Turbo with them, but their handling of the bumps is a lot less impressive, you will have a rough time on the Ebisu speed races. Even the Porsche 911 Turbo struggles on those tracks a bit. In regards, however to the other circuits, there usually is a line over some crests that are less sudden and violent and so your car won't be sent flying, in particular at Nevada Highway. Finally, in regards to the Pontiac GTO...Just use it in practice and you shall see what I mean! I have tried so many different set ups and the rear still slides across and tank slapping. --------------------------------- Final Words --------------------------------- Hopefully this walkthrough will be useful to you the reader and bring you many enjoyable wins. Lets face it, this game is ridiculously easy for saying: "Legal racing is so much harder." Nope it really isn't! I repeat again that there are indeed going to be other cars that you will probably prefer using for your own reasons and hopefully these set ups might give you a baseline then.
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